Day 26 – Kipepeo Beach to Moshi


 Another glorious sunrise means another early rising as we pack up the tent. 

 It seems like much longer but after only a day we leave Kipepeo Beach and head back across the ferry. It’s along queue of cars but 5000TzS gets us access to the emergency gate – whether this is a bribe I have no way of knowing – our taxi driver sorts it out!

As we wait, one of the pupils at my school walks by. Loth is in Dar and crossing  on the ferry too – small world!

Then to the bus station. Our Taxi Driver secures a good rate for travel to Moshi – non Mzungu prices!

However, the ticket seller decides that we are ripe for picking and tries to get us to pay extra for baggageto look after them carefully. We refuse. Seasoned bus travelers we have taken buses across Uganda, Malawi, Zambia and more importantly Tanzania – we have never been charged and we’re not starting now! He quotes a fellow passenger – Anita questions him in Kiswahii – “Is it a Mzungu price?” “Perhaps” is his wry response.

Dar is hot and humid, the coach more so and the journey out of Dar is slow and steamy. The traffic is building. For an hour or so we crawl past a road accident; over a weigh-bridge; behind slow moving lorries. To begin with we are traveling the same route we took to Songea almost four weeks ago. There seems to be one route out odd Dar, for coaches at least.  
Then eventually we turn, now on the Moshi road. Although to begin with this looks unpromising it soon improves and we make good progress.  

 The afternoon our journey is fairly uneventful until we meet the Usambaras mountains. These look stunning in the late afternoon glow , but we are on the wrong side of the coach.  Images are snapped through window frames on a very bouncy bus. 



 Thankfully we stop for a refreshment break and I grab some pics.     




 This is another long journey and soon the sun begins it’s glorious descent. Intensely orange then red, disappearing behind ribbons of cloud then finally behind a long distant mountain.  
 We still have a couple of hours but eventually we arrive in Moshi. As usual we are descended upon by several taxi drivers all eager for “Mzungu Money”. We benefit from a bidding war and cram our bags in to the winning taxi.  Thankfully there is no tent tonight.

We grab a meal at a bar opposite our accommodation- then shattered we sleep – no time even to finish this blog post.

Modes of Transport

  • Taxi(2)
  • Coach


  • 347


  • Two double rooms – Rafiki Backpackers

Cost (including breakfast)

  • $68


  • Moshi



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