Day 8 – Likoma to Nkhotakota (Ilala Ferry)

Another early start, we are up at 6am and have breakfast before picking up a taxi at 7am to catch the Southbound Ilala Ferry. We’re ultimately heading for Monkey Bay, but the ferry will travel all day and night, arriving there tomorrow. The ferry is due to depart at 6:15am but everyone knows it won’t….

Day 7- Likoma Island (Mango Drift)

I wake up early, my body clock not yet adjusted, an early coffee as the pale pink of the dawn sky fades into blue. After a hearty breakfast we book a snorkeling trip out to an outlying island, Masimbwe. Here the fish are more plentiful and show greater variety. We are taken on a small…

Day 6 – Likoma Island

As soon as we arrive in Likoma we set our watches back an hour, we are now just one hour ahead of the UK. Our boat weighs anchor and immediately the rope snaps. We then spend much of the next half an hour retrieving the anchor and positioning the boat in the shallow bay. A…

Day 5b- Mbamba Bay to Likoma

Just before midnight there is a knock at the door of our guesthouse. There is a man outside. The landlady has gone to bed, we are up awaiting the arrival of the captain of our intended boat at 2am. We wake her up and she lets him  in. It is the owner of another boat…

Day 5a –  Mbamba Bay 2

After the peace and quiet of recent days the night is noisy. A local party blares out music through the night in typically Tanzanian style. As we toss and turn In our separate dorms we both mull things over. Some questions. Why a night crossing? What about the boat? Who is the captain? We meet…

Day 4 – Mbamba Bay

I wake at just before 7. The sun is rising, the smell of smoke from charcoal fires permeates the morning air. We are staying put today. After two heavy days of travel it is time to put our feet up and relax. One peculiarity of our accommodation is that all of us are in a…